What Is Immersion Printing? A Complete Guide to Hydrographics
Sep 3rd 2025
Immersion printing, also called hydrographics or water transfer printing, is a simple, repeatable way to wrap full-color artwork around 3D parts using a printed film that floats on warm water.
This guide explains what the term means, how it compares to “hydrographics” and “hydro dipping,” and walks you through the end-to-end workflow: prep and basecoat, film orientation, activation, dipping, rinsing, and clear coating. You’ll also learn when to print your own film in-house, the gear that matters, and quick fixes for common issues so your first (or next) dip looks clean, consistent, and built to last.
What “Immersion Printing” Actually Means
Immersion printing is a surface decoration process where a pattern printed on a water-soluble film is activated on warm water and then wrapped around a submerged part. As the part passes through the liquified ink layer, the image bonds to the base-coated surface. After rinsing and clear coating, the graphic looks like it was made with the part.
Where Immersion Printing Shines
- Automotive & powersports: Dash bezels, interior trim, fenders, helmets
- Drinkware & promo: Tumblers, bottles, branded giveaways
- Outdoor & sporting goods: Coolers, bows, rods, cases
- Short-run manufacturing & prototyping: Fast design iterations, customized SKUs
- Maker shops & side hustles: Personalized gifts and niche patterns without minimums
Core Supplies & Setup
Materials
- Base coat compatible with your substrate (primer as needed)
- Printed film (pre-printed or Hydrokon blank film you print in-house)
- Activator (aerosol or spray gun)
- Clear coat (matte, satin, or gloss)
- Warm water in a tank or tote (typically 80–90°F / 27–32°C)
Tools
- Spray gun & compressor (for base, activator, clear) or rattle cans for entry level
- Thermometer & timer
- Masking tape, cutting tools, nitrile gloves
- Rinse setup (hose or booth) and a dust-controlled drying area
The Immersion Printing Workflow (Step-by-Step)
- Prep the part. Degrease, scuff if needed, prime plastics/metals, and ensure a dust-free surface.
- Lay down the base coat. Choose a color that complements the pattern (e.g., white for bright designs, black for carbon). Allow to dry/cure per manufacturer.
- Cut & stage the film. Cut with margins. Determine film orientation (most patterns have a “top” and “bottom”).
- Float the film. Place it ink-side up on warm water. Smooth bubbles/edges. Hydrate until the film goes flat and glassy (often ~60 seconds, varies by film).
- Activate. Apply a smooth, even pass of activator. The film will liquify into a slick ink layer with clear edges. Avoid puddling and dry spray.
- Dip (the immersion). Submerge the part at a slight angle, letting the ink wrap naturally. Maintain a steady pace. Don’t stop mid-dip.
- Rinse. Rinse with lukewarm water until the slimy residue is gone and the pattern feels like paint.
- Dry & clear. Let dry fully, then clear coat for durability and finish (matte/satin/gloss).
- Micro-cracks/holes: Under-activation or water too cold → increase activator slightly or water temp.
- Blushing/cloudiness: Excess moisture before clear or heavy coats → longer dry time, lighter coats.
- Stretching/distortion: Dipped too fast/too steep, or pattern placement needs adjustment → slower, steadier entry; re-orient film.
Printing Your Own Immersion Film (Why It Matters)
Pre-printed film is convenient, but printing your own blank film unlocks:
- Artwork control: Exact logos, repeats, and scale you want
- Speed: Same-day iterations instead of waiting on shipments
- Margins: Lower cost per part on short runs
- Branding: Private-label looks, seasonal drops, and client-specific designs
Hydrokon’s blank film is Made in the USA and designed for in-house printing so you can move from concept → print → dip in one workflow.
Choosing Basecoats, Activator, and Clear Coat
- Basecoats: Use systems proven for your substrate (ABS, polycarbonate, metals). Light colors brighten prints; darks deepen contrast.
- Activator: The right pass liquifies the ink without washing it out. Start with one consistent, overlapping pass. Adjust only one variable at a time (gun distance, speed, or fluid).
- Clear Coats: Matte hides minor flaws; gloss maximizes depth. For high-wear items (helmets, handles), use tougher clears and respect full cure windows.
Safety & Shop Practices
- Wear respiratory protection when spraying activator/base/clear.
- Maintain ventilation and follow all chemical SDS guidance.
- Keep a process log: water temp, soak time, activator pass notes, clear type, and cure times. Repeatability = profit.
Immersion Printing vs. Alternatives
- Vinyl wraps: Great for large flat areas and quick installs, but seams and edges can lift on complex shapes.
- Direct printing (UV/DTF/etc.): Sharp on flats; challenging on complex curves without jigs.
- Immersion printing: Excels at organic wrap around curves, textures, and recesses.
Common Questions (Quick Answers)
Is immersion printing durable?Yes, when paired with the right base and clear. Durability is largely the clear coat’s job.
Can I dip stainless, powder coat, or glass?Usually yes with the correct prep/primer and compatible base.
Do I need a big tank?Not to start. Many shops validate designs in totes, then scale to tanks/rollers for production.
What about environmental considerations?Manage overspray, reuse rinse water where possible, and dispose of waste according to local regulations.
Glossary for Immersion Printing
- Activator: Solvent blend that dissolves film backing and liquifies ink for transfer.
- Basecoat: Colored paint layer under the print; shows through transparent areas.
- Dwell/Soak Time: Time film hydrates on water before activation.
- Registration: Aligning the pattern to the part for logos or symmetry.
- Rinse: Step that removes film residue after dipping.
- Wrap: How the pattern flows around curves during the dip.
Immersion printing makes it simple to achieve factory-quality graphics on complex shapes with a consistent, repeatable workflow. If you’re exploring printing your own Hydrokon water transfer film and have questions, please contact us. We’re happy to help you dial in the right setup.